The BEST of the BEST surfing wetsuit and gear reviewed so far :

  • Review : Wetsuit boots ATAN MISTRAL 3mm and MISTRAL HOT 6,5mm +

    They look the same so only one picture will do for both models. Please check the atan.fr website and use a traduction plugin for all the tech infos on the latex / limestone neoprene surf booties. The 3mm are cozy for me till 13°C water temperature. Lower than that go with the 6,5mm. in a 11°C water temp session for two hours, my feet were HOT like if I was at home in a nice pair of fur lined boots! NO BULLSHIT.They claim the overall feel is barefoot like. That’s verified. It’s incredible and almost like if you don’t feel them.Super Read More
  • Review : Isurus Alpha-Elite 434 Mens Wetsuit - 2016 +

    Don’t make the mistake I did of trying your isurus wetsuit at home, you’ll sweat and it will become a battle. Do it outside when it’s cold, it will be easier and it will glide on your skin to take it’s shape. In fact you realise it when checking the isurus video on youtube showing how to put on a wetsuit, the guy is outside…When I finally put the wetsuit on for my first session on this 0°C morning, it was just perfect, no hassle.That review is not based on the 3 first sessions to allow the suit / material to Read More
  • Review : Isurus Wetsuits I-Elite 232 - 2015 +

    First review after 30+ session for 4 months in water ranging from 18°C to 12°C. Advertised for these temperatures 54°F (12°C) to 61°F (16°C) : It's true. Neoprene thickness advertised 2/3/2 is true: we are talking real rubber thickness here. (not rubber + lining thickness bullshit).Wore it in the morning by a windy 10°C and water at 13°C : no cold at all even after 2 hours surf. I have very little fat, was active and wearing gloves, hood and booties. At 18°C obviously without anything I was a bit too hot...In the morning, with a 3°C outside temperature and a 12°C Water Read More
  • Review : Seventhwave wetsuit MAX COMP 1.5mm Mens Ti FL ZB Steamer +

    Real 1.5mm thick yamamoto rubber #39. Killer rubber. Add to that the ultra thin jersey lining.The lining is not that silky smooth nylon you can be used to with every manufacturer nowadays. It’s more of an heavy duty type of jersey. Probably more resistant but not as nice on the skin. The suit is all you can expect globally from a custom yamamoto wetsuit so I will only comment in the little flaws.This was a custom suit, (you can also order general sizes). The wetsuit had to be sent back to seventhwave for some minor change in the collar. It Read More
  • Review : Matuse Shabo Glove 2.5mm - 2014 +

    They fit snug at first and fit good after 3 sessions.The lengh of the fingers is a tiny bit short, I wear a size L and they are aprox 0.8mm shorter than the o'neill Psycho 1.5mm in size L. My middle finger is aprox 9.4cm. The first session you feel and think you choose the wrong size. I don't know if that's why I got a tiny bit hole in the glue at the end of a fingertip after only 5 sessions of 2 hours.The yamamoto Neoprene do not soak Up Water.They do not inflate with water when paddling, they Read More
  • Review : Isurus SCS/Zicronium Removable Thermo insulated Yamamoto neoprene wetsuit hood +

    Sizing is good, I’m a 54cm and got a M that fits great. Size M should fit aproximatly like a 52 / 58cm range...Wore it on top of the wetsuit. Comfort is top notch, even wih surfears earplugs on. The fluffy lining is super comfy. The neoprene is just unbielievable. Supergooey exterior with a never seen before feel to it. It stretches but the material doesn’t behave like it want’s badly to get back to it’s original state. It can stay smoothly stretched and this is great in the water when you’re looking right or left for extended periods of time. Read More
  • Review : SurfEars earplugs +

    I'm using those new to the market ear plugs, they look better and are better than the rest. Especially compared to the Doc's proplugs, that are really unbearable for me, unless your ear is so bad you don't have a choice. I've had a 20+ sessions with those, I'm still experimenting with sizes, and i'm currently using the Small size, used the medium and didn't change much apart from the difficulty to put them in, so hey i'm staying with the Small for now. You hear better than anything else out there, but let's be honest what they claim isn't Read More
  • Review : Ripcurl WETTIE SERIES SEARCH SURF DUFFLE BAG +

    This is some badass suf bag. This is the swiss army knife of surf bags. Multiple pockets of all sorts (easy access straped neoprene / ziped net / wax compartment...) Multiple handling straps , 4 on the bag and some removable backpack straps and messenger strap. Small hidden changing mat of 50 x 50 centimeters (half a regular changing mat). Removable wetsuit bag that seems waterproof because of the inner silicone like lining, but I did not use it as I store my wetty in my Northcore C-mat. Heavy duty nylon. The base is made of heavy duty rubber so it does not Read More
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Wetsuit : Neoprene basics - The practical guide to decode the bullshit

This is my take on wetsuit technology, way of doing things and why they’re bad.

Simple non techy write up so you can understand what’s going on behind the scene of the wetsuit material world, including the uprising of new technology materials and new terminology.

cellbillquickneillcurl and other more unknown manufacturers from the windsurf and kite world use the standard chinese neoprene of different types, thickenesses and properties, they almost all use the same general kind of neoprene of different grades for lower or high ends. The only one (to my knowledge) to use something a bit different, great and weird (in my opinion) altogether is o’neill with their technobutter 2 neoprene, touch it, stretch it, it’s really different from the rest of the pack. The psychofreak using that neoprene is reviewed on this site.

You’ll see a lot of emerging or less known brands advertising limestone neoprene in their construction that is made from a rock and not from petroleum. It is more eco friendly and certainly have better properties and advantages for surfing than the regular neoprene, especially the widely renowned highest end of limestone, the one made from a japanese company named yamamoto.

So, we have the usual chinese neoprene and different limestone neoprene sources.

I won’t start with the inside tech of each limestone rubber sources and I don’t know everything so that would be pointless. They are also good at keeping secrets so having some real info is pretty much impossible.

That's what I'll be covering as standard chinese neoprene ain't interesting anymore and everything has already been said, we have 3 big sources for limestone neoprene:
- Chinese limestone based neoprene. The cheapest limestone.
- Japanese limestone neoprene.
- Yamamoto Japanese limestone neoprene.

The yamamoto is probably the best one, mostly used in advanced and high end wetsuits for triathletes, swimmers or surfers. Their material is supposedly not cheap and therefore, the wetsuits made with it aren’t.
Yamamoto uses numbers to categorise their product. #39 beeing the one mostly used by wetsuit makers for surfing allowing superb performance with some durability. They recently introduced their latest #40 rubber that should replace #39 in a near future as it's stretchier.

You will find lot of brands using limestone but only a couple of them are specifically sourced from yamamoto.

Wetsuit brands advertise clearly their use of limestone, japanese limestone, or japanese yamamoto limestone.
Janga, carapace, Feral, NEEDSessentials, seventhwave, Zion, Adelio, Nine Plus, Sen No Sen, Matuse and Isurus are limestone based wetsuits ( this is not an complete list of all manufacturers). I've had the oportunity to own and check carefully Matuse, Needs, Nine Plus, Seventhwave, Isurus, Janga and Zion.

The only way to compare some yamamoto limestone with some chinese or other japanese sourced ilimestone, would be to compare 2 identical suits. Impossible in reality.

Let's focus on what's really important in choosing a wetsuit.

Remember that the number one function of a suit is to keep you warm and material is not the only thing at play here.

Fit and panel junctions are the two others most important thing on a suit.

The fit:

It’s the number one thing that will keep you warm. No looseness and water entry from neck flush, ankles or wrists. Some 3mm chinese neoprene wetsuit that fits you perfectly will keep you warmer than a yamamoto 4mm that is too loose or not apropriatly engineered for your body type. Sizing is critical.

if the wetsuit fit is loose in some areas water will come in, if water comes in you’ll get cold.

Panel junction:

if the wetsuit is only stiched, that water that can come in when the fit ain’t right will continue coming in at times, well to be honest when it’s only stitched even with a custom wetsuit perfectly fitted, you’ll get that fresh feeling from the water along the stitching.

Cold water wetsuits need at least to be glued, and nowadays they add a glued taping or some kind of welded seems along the junction of the panels, inside or both inside and outside.

I’ll put those aspects in order of importance : Fit, seams, neoprene type, lining type, neoprene thickness, panel construction and then, after that, you get everything comfort related.

Now the biggest trick, the biggest con in the wetsuit industry : the inside lining of wetsuits, the one supposed to add warmth.

Using the best rubber has no sense with a stiff or thick lining.

quikbillcurlcell and others use a thick lining so they use a thinner neoprene. Don’t get fooled, nothing is warmer than the rubber. Some of their 4mm is around 2.5mm rubber and 1.5mm combinned inner and outer lining!
3mm neoprene + 1mm inside lining won’t be warmer than a 4mm rubber neoprene that has just a finish lining, it just won’t.

A finish lining, as I call it is an ultra thin lining glued on the rubber just to protect it or so the wetsuit can be put on.

Lining is cheaper than rubber and it probably allows them to compensate the lack of stretch of their neoprene at 4mm.

The thicker the neoprene, the stiffer.
This is even more true with cheap neoprene. This is why they use fluffy « warm » lining.

It’s even worst than that because the lining soaks up water so it adds a huge wet weight, take a look at solspot 2012 raw data tests (more info on their website):


solspot weight wetsuit data 2012


Yes, you can realise that the only suits in this lineup using yamamoto, the Isurus I-Elite wetsuit is lighter than the rest, dry and wet, and it only soaks 1kg of water, while the competition can soak up to 5kg of water with the Patagonia Wetsuit and I beleive it’s merino lining. Merino lining, what an aberration!
This was in 2012, so things changed a bit since then, patagonia changed everything and are now using yulex material.

The reality and the effects of lining did not change a bit though.

The other thing with lining is that it doesn’t dry as quick as impermeable rubber, especially the yamamoto rubber that is 98% impermeable.
Nuff said.

Don’t be naive, nowadays, you don’t judge a good neoprene only because it’s silky smooth or stretches really good anymore. If you think that, they tricked you.

You see an error here? please enlighten me and others in the comments section.

I guess your next question is: what should I buy then?

If you are on a budget : 150 to 250$ - You can get some chinese limestone neoprene at that price.
As I said, fit is your number one focus, so you have to find the right suit for your body type. Needsessentials could be an option, they use some fluffy lining though but still a good option.

If your budget is higher : 250 to 450$ - You can get some Yamamoto rubber at that price
This is tricky, If the fit is right for you, I'll probably try to grab a bargain on an old matuse as they have regular sales or maybe some Isurus on sale, I could also check Feral that also uses Yamamoto rubber. All those do not use lining in their 4/3.

If your Budget is on the higher range: 450 to 600$

You have plenty of options, again think fit, I could go for a custom carapace premium yamamoto, Nine Plus (if it fitted me) or Isurus (that fit me quite well). If you want something super durable given the price tag, I would go with a custom seventhwave MAX, the lining they use is durable.

Review : Isurus Alpha-Elite 434 Mens Wetsuit - 2016

Isurus Wetsuits Alpha Elite 434 Mens Wetsuit Winter 2016

Don’t make the mistake I did of trying your isurus wetsuit at home, you’ll sweat and it will become a battle. Do it outside when it’s cold, it will be easier and it will glide on your skin to take it’s shape. In fact you realise it when checking the isurus video on youtube showing how to put on a wetsuit, the guy is outside…
When I finally put the wetsuit on for my first session on this 0°C morning, it was just perfect, no hassle.
That review is not based on the 3 first sessions to allow the suit / material to break in.

Thickness : no surprises, real rubber thickness, it's thick as it should be with the addition of some ultra thin nylon finish lining. You also get a different lining inside with the SCS Nano Skin Smoothy back panel, ultra thin also but kind of a tiny tiny bit fluffy.

In / Off the wetsuit: after the break in period it is easyer than last year model thanks to the newly design entry system. For those of you in need of a tip: Putting it on, I put left arm first. Putting it off, right arm first. No Hassle. No battle.


The Fit: well this depends on body type, it certainly fits great (for me), it’s almost like if it was the best overall sizing, better than a custom for me (go figure, and I own custom wetsuits). Like if all brands choosed to specilaise in a body type, short, large, tall, and if Isurus managed to size the perfect average in everything. Is it due to panel construction? material? how it just enclose your muscles?

I’m really amazed how this wetsuit fits me, I mean it fits me better than a fully custom yamamoto wetsuit. UNREAL. I have not ONE complain to make about the fit. not too tight, not too loose in any part. No flushes or entry points (do not forget to adjust the cord on the left shoulder!). Best, painless and easiest chest entry system ever. I always find something, ALWAYS. but nothing here.

SERIOUSLY: If there was a competition solely on chest zip wetsuit entry system, The champion would be the new isurus range (2016 and assuming all the range has the same entry system).
Almost no stress on the seams while putting it on or off. Amazing. And i've tested a bunch this year, including the big names. I must add that the neoprene holes due to the sitching  in some strategic areas have increase in size a little bit, nothing you don't see elsewhere but still.

Well, it's a good entry panel if you know what you’re doing. If you don’t want to take care of the suit and just pull it off (or on) like a crazy monkey, you will put some stress on the seams and eventually damage the suit, don’t worry, it’s doable.

I’m stoked with the suit, this is exactly that kind of product that is so well made, so high end, so perfect in any way, with the highest grade material that can be used (almost : Yamamoto just launched their #40 neoprene), that you’re just addicted. So beyond what there is out there. Well if you are the kind of guy peculiar enough to apreciate it. Humm, is there any guy out there who can't apreciate a ferrari? sadly, there is...

Hello, my name is Phil, I’m addicted to Isurus wetsuits and wetsuit accessories. Please make booties, please make gloves, please make an 1.5MM summer fullsuit.

While I’m at it: please specifiy hood sizes for your hooded wetsuits.

Warmth: I won’t comment because it’s subjective to conditions, body fat and surfer preference. But yeah it’s hot and you’ll be hotter than the competition with the same thickness that do not use limestone. Benefits : you can use thinner specs and have more flexibility and same warmth. In cold water, that’s a real bonus.

In this wonderfull world of pleasure and luxury, the tiny little things can alter your satisfaction though. Like some disgracefull collar, shoulder and leg creases in the neoprene, that can’t be undone and that are due to folding the wetsuit in the warehouse after manufacture. Even if the suit comes in a plastic bag with a lot of different kinds of protection, that it’s wraped around air tubes to avoid that kind of creases, you have no way to avoid it 100%.

I have also on my suit a problem with the panel glued behind the chest zipper that starts to come off like if there was not enough glue or something. I have like 3 unglued centimeters. I have noticed that if I specifically pull on it, it spreads a bit. After 8 sessions this did not expand with real use. Doesn’t have any consequence for now. I have plenty of time to take care of that and will report when the times come.

In the water: by a chilly 0°C morning, 11°C water temp with 13 knots wind, I couldn’t help myself and peed in the suit, a large amount actually. In the 3/2 as I don’t use booties and gloves it goes away and it never bothered me. In this one obviously with boots and gloves with a tight set up, all the pee stayed in, I got cold and stayed cold. It was the first session after 2 months of continuous various viruses that got me sticked to the couch, I had no arms to enter those mushy and mellow waves, so no chance to flush anything by gravity. I managed to stay an hour and half more in the water anyway but it was not comfy at all. Does standing up might have flushed it, dunno but I don’t really want to try just to update you guys.

By 11°C water temp with 10°C outside temp and little to no wind, small waves with long periods so not extreme activity at all (with hood / gloves / booties): i was HOT, had to ftake out the hood to flush it a bit, was cooking.

Will report on different session temps, in case that's of any use for you.

Bottom line: I don’t know about Feral and Carapace but I’ve check almost everything else that could compare and in my opinion in 2016 this is the BEST surfing wetsuit money can buy, no doubt. Did not check the new matuse scipio and I don’t know what their blackzero tech is really about, if it changes anything in their stretch and longevity, this brand is more soul than clarity so you just have to trust them. I’m not really inclined to, given the reputation of their product of beeing stiff among other things, so yeah Isurus is the way to go if you're in search for the higher end.

I’ll be updating this review from time to time given what’s hapenning.

Review : Fyn Genome adac system surfboard fins

Fyn genome adac system surfboard fins

This will  NOT be a quick review, simply because there is so much information it is just not possible.

this is so different, so new, so advanced, so techy, that I felt I needed to write about how I felt using them session after session, because it’s definitly something that you need to get used to.

In my review, I will simply state their claims without any tech informations, please check their website (type "fyn genome" in your preferred search engine) as they cover all the details behind their patented work and tech, most of it is in french though, so use a traduction app or browser module.

These are the futures model, the Pro version (hard flex) recommended for my weight after a nice and quick call.

It was a gift so I couldn’t choose to go with FCS. I have 4 boards in my quiver to try them on, but none of them is a "latest design" shortboard. I got a 6’6 Rusty shortboard, 6’6 rocket fish John Johnston, a Linden compressor 6’8 and a Don Johnston monster 7’2 shortboard. I’ll get the FCS version if I’m stocked so I can try it in more performance shortboards / newer designs.

First session:
It was a head high day at the beach break, tide was high and lowering, 95% of the waves were quick closeouts with a high current on the face making it hard to catch waves. I only had my rusty 6’6 x 19,6 x 2,5 on hand, maybe a tiny bit too much board, I feel a 6’2 at 33 liters would have been perfect for me. Anyway, I wasn’t at my best physical fitness so I ended up catching only a couple of waves during the session.

One of their claim is that it helps you paddle. I did not feel any drag paddling at high speed to catch a wave or getting back quickly to the line up to avoid unecessary duck dives. Do you feel any drag? NO. Do they help? I didn't feel it honestly.

What paper say isn't necessary noticeable.

Also, you know those days the waves are a bit flat or kinda mellow, you paddle, miss the wave, and you are under the impression that you missed it by very very little. Well it felt like this did not happen or could not happen. There is also that " bogged " feeling you have at take off sometimes when trying out some different fins on your board. I did not feel that either.

The overall feel that I can put a word on is fluidity and unrestriction in some way.

It’s like a skatey feel or like an absense of feel, like « Do I have fins? ». You feel it’s gonna slip and it doesn’t, you hope it’s not gonna hold and it does.
They’re doing their job unoticed.
It’s the strangest, not feeling them like you’re used to.
It’s like you can do what you want and they got your back but without you feeling them.

I'm asking myself, did you feel lack of precision? I don't have the answer yet. Come back here later for an update.

STRANGE and great altogether, Hopefully some clean sessions will come soon with some more feedback and some more radical and pushed maneuvers.

Second session with a 6’6 rocket Fish JJ mounted in single fin:
Too loose with the single fin...
The guys at Fyn recommended it in one of their email. I tried it but it won’t be my go to set up.
On a powerfull bottom turn, I pretty much got the same feeling as my first session: it loosly holds. You feel and think it’s gonna slip and it doesn’t. Wih only one fin on the back...
I can't really explain it but this set up was completly off for me on the board. I'm not a single fin lover anyway. Will try the 3 fin set up next time.

Third session with a 6’8 Linden compressor: I used the longboard fin (big size one that is supposed to go on 9’0 to 10’0s).
Knee high to waist high fast waves.
I was impressed by how little I was feeling the Fin. I regularly have a 7’5 Greenough 4-A Volan on lock down with this board which I feel is the best of my experiments so far. Well honestly I did not feel I had something else, and especially not something SO big… Exept for a better hold during tip time with some mushy sections that should have wiped me out (I think). I don’t really know what that say’s about the fin right now. I’ll keep having sessions with it and report more. A second session with the fin and I’m starting to feel a bit slower maneuverability (longboard like), feeling I do not have with a smaller fin where I can slide and place the tail where I want right after take off. I felt like I had a hard time doing that. Starting to think that the fin is definitly too big for the board. I want to try the board with a twin set up next. They don't have any small size longboard fin.

Tried the longboard fin on my 10" Pearson Arrow cj nelson noserider and My 9'4 pearson arrow cj nelson performance longboard.

2 sessions, knee high to waist high, months apart, on the 10" in less than great waves, so I have to keep riding the fin...

I probably have to get used to it but the only downside I see is like on the linden compressor, placing the tail right from the take off, I can't do it like i'm used to and want to for now. I'm not talking about a bottom turn. I generally like to take off and while still up on the face of the wave, quickly sliding the tail so I can go right to the nose, no small bottom turn positioning... Well I have a hard time doing it, seems slow and hard, maybe because thee's not enough speed or something. While nose riding the hold is pretty amazing I DEFINITLY feel the difference, it handles the mush like no other fin I know. When I think about it, i'm almost tempted to quantify saying it holds better by 20% or more. Once you're speeding down the line maneuveurability is great. I'm tempted to say better but I have to try it more.

1 session on the 9'4.

Waist high + session, apart from my lack of fitness, it was great. had great stability on the nose! Even if the Fyn is supposed to let you turn without having to be in the rear position, on a longboard, long bottom turn with lack of proper legs compression ends in the water. I can honestly say I would have been down far quicker with the Futures performance 9'0 single fin I know well on this board. The hold is something.

 

New surf sessions and…

It all clicked for me on these fins!

It’s almost like if the material needed some braking period of 10 hours + of surf to really start working flawlessly like intended by engineers.

New session on the 9-4 high perf longboard.
Speed, maneuverability, hold, really better than my single 9 performance futures fin on these aspects, I want to try a thruster option!!!
Less problems to make the fin release right from the start at take off, but ain’t what I’m used to, maybe I’ll Finally learn how to do it. But the fin beeing pretty large…

Still better overall than a conventional fin. Have to put it on the 10" now to see if I feel the same benefits.


Mellow waist high + session on the Aviso 6’6 JJ fish at around 40+ ltrs

Amazing:

The waves were getting flatter on the inside (really flatter) and I would NEVER have passed those sections with regular fins and especially on this board. I’m not exagerating, only a longboard would have made it, and probably not all of them.
I’m talking 5 seconds REAL flat section here. The kind of which pumping won’t do anything for you.

Instead of pumping and pumping I was surfing the flat section working the fins (snaking) and generating speed with ease allowing me to surf the reform to the beach. I was almost maintening my speed, almost.
I’m not saying this because it happened one time and I’m impressed. I took 5 waves at the end of the session (tired) in the exact same spot and conditions and everytime the same result. More or less speed, but still surfing till the beach.

What is even more crazy is that I have this Board since 3 years now and I’ve been struggling to make it work. S T R U G G L I N G. And that’s why I put those fins on it in the first place, because I knew that it was a real test. That board was SLOW, hard to turn, like heavy under foot (in fact it’s very light, think firewire FST light) just the kind of board in your quiver you take when you’re not in perfect shape and you want the comfort of some volume, after a time out or a sickness, but you know it lacks performance big time.
I just tried to convince myself there was no problem with the shape. I tried every set of Futures blackstix, AM1, F4, EA, rusty’s, Al merrick version of MR TFX, futures Solus. A bunch right?

Yes some were better than others but nothing made it work like I wanted it to, The best option was Solus and Al Merrick AMT with trailer.

Until today.

It’s become lively!

On the take off the speed generated was like if I were on a TOMO MPH shape, NO JOKE, the control, hold and vivacity were amazing on the face of the wave.

Something clicked, with the board and with the fins.

I had my fare share of epiphany, finding just the right fins for a board and having a blast.

NEVER like that.

AMAZING.

I can’t wait to try them in head high + conditions, hopefully before summer 17.
 
In the mean time, I’ll be surfing the 10-0.

I just bought a Firewire TOMO Evo. Can't wait to test it with the genome fins.

I had the pleasure of testing their emergency system by a beautiful day!

It saved the fin box on my one week old Firewire Tomo Evo... No sign of stress around the box, no delam, just a very tiny dent due to that metalic pivot exploding on impact.

I have yet to have some real good waves to report on how it goes on that kind of shapes.

Something else rather important. I had to deal with their customer support. I won't give any specific detail on the reason why because every problem can be specific to a user, it's use of the material and what happens to it in or out the water. That said, Their customer service is AMAZING (from a US customer service point of view, not a French one !), Very understanding & quick solutions. A pleasure.

JUNE 2017 UPDATE

Got myself the small single fin model for my linden compressor 6'8 minimal (the big one for LB's was just too big)

Well this Small Fyn single fin is now on lock on the board. It was already an amazing board with whatever fin you used Greenough 4A, kai sallas, thruster, almost everything worked fine especially the 4A. The Fyn is at another level. It's just unimaginable, unbelievable how much it can change how you ride and how the board behave.

when you step on the tail, the board spins like a skateboard on wheelie! No joke.
on a 6’8 mini longboard mounted on small aprox 4’5 single fin or on a tomo evo with a thruster set.
The feeling is more extreme on the tomo, in fact on the tomo the spin sensation is almost the same as on a skate. Almost. Less radical on the 6'8 obviously.

on the 6’8 Pro 2017 us box model:
you can place the tail during take off exactly as you want and where you want without loosing speed (those take offs on speedy beach breaks when you don't have time to go for the bottom turn). fin slightly upfront in the box.
Hold during noserides is amazing, maneuverability is perfect when you keep the rear foot just in front of the pad. When you step on the pad, THE MANEUVEURABILITY IS   N E V E R   S E E N   B E F O R E. Almost Like skatebording on the 2 rear wheels. Yes I say it again cause it's really crazy. The Pivot is really extreme for this kind of board. Demands some getiing used to. The limit is now Your abilities, not the board nor the fins.

You have a feeling that you can control the position of the tail on the wave like if you were gliding without fins and with footstraps. It’s like the fin is just here to hold and is the extension of the leg. I just can’t imagine for now what the possibilities are.

Last wave of the session I was turning from the nose ride position with ease and flow just by slowly leaning on the sides.

Just want to get back in the water for more.
Sessions after session those fins keeps amazing me more. My surfing level has improved or maybe it's just the material that allows me to surf better or do things I never could before.

Again, more will follow soon. I'm still waiting for decent overhead conditions.

 

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The Masterminds at Fyn explains some more : (This is a google traduction of emails received in answer to my questions)

The principle behind those fins is to reduce the efforts needed to provide maximum efficiency.

This traduced by minimal efforts needed to obtain a rotation, without loosing your line.

It’s not necessary anymore to be on the 1/3 rear of the board to make radical maneuvres. You benefit from that energy savings to ride the board more upfront, exactly in the right spot to gain and keep velocity, using your rail game to accelerate or carve.

If you keep your foot on the back, you can rotate the ADAC ™ leading edge orientation system with your back foot, this increases the rudder effect that rotates the board on itself, as in slide, But without stalling or braking energetic.

This positioning on the rear therefore allows the figures of sliding of the rear. But the ADAC system on our fins saves effort and therefore needs less to be positioned backwards to maneuver, to fully use the rebound effect and maneuverability generating speed, it is optimal to surf more forward (the flatter and fastest zone of the board).

It is strongly advised to use boards with a wide forward point (in front of the middle) to take advantage of more use of the front foot, because the wide points back serve only to maintain lift on back foot meneuvers, Decreases the speed capacity of the board. Our fins abolish the obligation to over dimension the rear surface because they offer you the maneuverability in advanced positions ...

Fyn dynamics fins have NO cant, they’re engeeneered that way.
It does not mess with futures fins box systems where cant is given by the fin. We carried out the calculations of the projection of the lift force with and without cant of 3 ° to 5 ° to evaluate the real gain of the cant and it turns out that the theoretical difference is a few tenths of Newtons.

We further consider that the cant parameter is canceled by The antagonism of the two opposite side wings, And that it is a very "aesthetic" parameter whose impact is negligible. We opted not to take it into account and simplify it.

The effect of drive (acceleration) supposed to be improved by the cant, is more of the good shape and angle of the fins than of its cant, and we worked on this hydrodynamic aspect which is the most Effective and which provides gains of several newtons on the Maneuvers.
exemple videos test: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vhf0dciegqsq3oz/comparatif%20chrono%20light%20boar d.mp4?dl=0)

On the other hand, we advise shaper using the fcs to put Central plugs without cant on all boards for boards equipped with FYN fins. We also recommend not to put a Toe angle (pinching) because the fins adjust themselves automatically and simultaneously for all fins.
They can be mounted on boxes with a toe angle, but It is less efficient than the theoretical optimum.

To be precise about the influence of the cant: The difference in force between a fin with cant of 7 ° and a fin without cant, holds in the projection of this force. Using force vectors and trigonometry, the corresponding result to the difference between the hypotenuse and the adjacent side of a triangle rectangle of angle of 7 °, It is therefore the cosine of 7 °, this amounts to 0.992, so a force of 1 Kg optimal strength with cant will be transformed into a force of 0.992 Kg Without cant, so less than 1% difference.
Let us add that the antagonist fins cancels the effect in opposition.

If you have 5 position on your Fish 6.6, I recommend 3 settings Depending on the conditions and your style or mood of the day:
1: twin front mounting: small waves great maneuverability
2: rear dual mounting of quad positions: Less maneuvering but useful When the height rises above 1.5 meters, or you need support from 2 fins in the verticality to ensure the trajectories (this Configuration may not be possible if the boxes have been mounted Of different depth.
3: only one fin in maximum center rear position: Maneuverability and we have a really nice boost in the faster waves, yes a single fin is really a good feeling to test!

Overall what changes compared to habits taken with fins Static:
Surf more ahead of your usual foot positions of about 15 cm, You will still have a very great maneuverability. With the dynamic fins, no need to go for the maneuvers on the back foot which slows down the board, stay on the fast, flat area of the center of your board, and enjoy from this committed position to intuitively launch your maneuvers taking advantage of the board feeling that sticks to your feet in your rotations.

Use the full length of the rail in your curves, as in Snowboard or parabolic ski, and insert Snake movements into your Boost pump ... surf more intuitive and fluid than ever!

This requires some sessions to be fully exploited because maneuvers are anchored in our reflexes, and it is difficult to change habits.

At the level of the shape: A board with an advanced wide point is useful to take full advantage of a speed generating position, an outline with more parallel rails are possible thanks to the gain of maneuverability, this allows better use of the rails in the fast zones. (Better immersion over a longer length) Assembly of the lateral fins without toe angles (parallel) is recommended for a constant synchronization of the fins. This makes the board easier to understand in its rotation, reduces the drag and exploits the stimulus effect of maneuvers or snake optimally.

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The ADAC Fins virtually never « release » like a conventionnal fin because the more weight you put on them the more their incidence and their camber adapt to maintain a good lift / drag ratio.

On the other hand, if you put a lot of force on a fin with a strongly backward position, it will interpret this as a will to pivot the rear and adjust its angle and let the excess force turn the board like a rudder.

Depending on the power and style of the surfer, it is necessary to adjust the resistance to the incidence of all the fins:
3 classic fins series will have the resistance of incidence of two fins pro series.
But the resistance to the rotation of the back of the board was deliberately diminished to save the surfer's energy and to steer the board from the flat area of ​​the middle of the board. So if you find that the rear is too free it is because the rotation is facilitated by the auto incidence.
To harden the rotational behavior, the center of gravity of the surfer must be moved away from the pivot point made by the fin. For this 2 levers: advance the center of gravity of the surfer or and retreat the fins.

It is also possible to harden the rotation by increasing the number of fins or by using a harder version (the rotation resistance is modified by the internal structure of the ADAC system)

The « slide » is not a direction taken by the back of the board under the effect of "rudder", this component is desired, it is controlled and is limited by the distance between your center of Gravity and center of the fin (theoretical point representing the pivot point created by the fins). To limit this displacement (acceleration producer) it is necessary simply to advance on your board, or to retreat the fins. This effect is clearly sought after and desired, but it requires boards with widepoints advanced to be fully optimized.


The idea is to look for naturally ondulating trajectories around the spine without needing to retreat to turn.

It is therefore necessary to block this reflex to link the rotation with a recoil of the body on the fins related to the style of competition figures expressing the power of the athlete seeking the valuable and necessary note of the jury.

Stay in the advanced position on the board even in your turns, they will then be producing speed and will allow you to place more figure or take off higher up in the same space with less muscle energy expenditure.

The extreme 180° cut back is the ideal figure to reveal the work of the dynamic fins, the usual cut back cuts the inertia of the board and the surfer when the body is placed on the back to pivot, the advance on the wave is consumed by this slowdown, and it is necessary to quickly rebasculate on the front to regain control of the trajectory by regaining speed...

With elastic Greenough-type fins, with Flex, energy is stored by pressing more strongly than normally in the turn to have a spring effect when exiting the turn, but the "hydrodynamic" problem is that the energy surplus flexing the fin like a spring, then generates the release (in the hydrodynamic sense with loss of lift and increase of drag braking). Our job was to think this type of maneuver in terms of hydrodynamic efficiency. This consists in obtaining the maximum effect with the minimum of energy: one turns flat without effort added, this turn is a producer of speed and one finds himself at the exit of cut back with a pivoting realized in a very short radius, without effort with a gain of speed produced by the fin. We then sequence the following maneuvers without needing to relocate the foots and the weight on the board and with an advance usable for the fluid reading of the rest of the wave ...


Overall, there is a fluid maneuver in constant acceleration. It is an exercise that requires a different placement, and a real understanding of our system because the maneuver must be reinvented in terms of weight distribution on the board, to take full advantage of the advantages of the genome fin. On our side the theoretical and technical work of optimization of the performance is realized, now it is the surfers to invent the new figures exploiting this gain. https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1enoiiqe4kk25h/test%20acceleration%20light%20board.mp4?dl=0

For the twin fin option there are two elements to be taken into account

1: the toe angle:

Our dynamic fins adjust their angle according to the impulse, https://www.facebook.com/jef.iglesias/videos/10210329490981950/

The ideal is not to put an angle of toe with our dynamic finss (all configurations) in the way of Simmons with very remote fins https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1703148023309474&set= a.1381498792141067.1073741827.100008428779429 & type = 3

2: the aileron load:

When turning radical in twin or thruster, quad, the antagonistic fins (external to the curve) are removed from the water partially or totally (ventilation of the fin). The weight of the surfer and his inertia are thus concentrated on a single fin (or 2 for a quad) So if you accumulate an angle of toe + an overload of the fin you will have a dynamic fin that pushes the board on the inside strongly. The recommendation is to mount the fin in twin in the Simons way (we place the fin on the side near the rail to keep it still submerged but it is oriented parallel to the core of the board and as far back as possible to have a good propulsive sweeping effect, but for 85 kg you will need 2 fins (per side of turn) to collect the load, so a quad mount is necessary for powerful surfers of your size who take out half of the fins Off the water in their maneuvers, but if the style is cool and the antagonistic fins do not come out of the water, then twin fins are enough.

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